When Muybridge Made Motion Visible in Palo Alto

Eadweard Muybridge’s ‘Animal Locomotion’ was the first scientific study to use photography. Now, more than 130 years later, Muybridge’s work is seen as both an innovation in photography and the science of movement.

Eadweard Muybridge, detail of ‘Bouquet’, Galloping, 1887. (Source: Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, Netherlands)

I love digging into California’s technological past. Long before Silicon Valley became the engine we think of today, the state was already a proving ground for industrial innovation. Oil, agriculture, mining, and, perhaps not surprisingly, but significantly for us here, cinema. But I’m not talking about the 1930s or 1950s, not even the 20th century. The technological roots of the movie industry in California go back much further, to a dusty track in Palo Alto.

It was the summer of 1878, and a horse was caught doing something humans had argued over for centuries. For a fraction of a second, all four of its hooves left the ground at once. Not in the way painters had long imagined, legs flung forward and back in an airborne sprawl, but gathered neatly beneath the body. That brief, invisible instant, preserved by a camera, helped give birth to cinema and changed how scientists would come to understand motion in living things.

Let me explain. 

This is how painters used to depict horses at full gallop, with legs spread out above the ground. Derby at Epsom by Théodore Géricault, 1821, oil on canvas, 92 x 116 cm (Musée du Louvre)

The horse was a Thoroughbred mare named Sallie Gardner. The man who wanted the answer was Leland Stanford, a railroad magnate and former California governor. He would, of course, go on to lend his name to one of the great educational institutions in history. But before that, Stanford was fixated on a practical problem. As a serious horse breeder, racer, and betting guy, he wanted to know whether a galloping horse ever had all four hooves off the ground at once. It was a question with real implications for training, speed, injury, and breeding at a time when elite horse racing was big business. 

Artists had painted images of horses at full gallop for centuries, and they often had the horse fully splayed out above the ground. You’ve probably seen those paintings in wealthy people’s homes or at your local country club. Or maybe not. Anyway, it turns out that the gallop is too fast, and beyond the capabilities of human. Stanford wanted the answer, and Muybridge accepted his offer to find out using pioneering new technology. 

Eadweard Muybridge, The Horse in Motion (“Sallie Gardner,” 1878. (Source: Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.)

Muybridge had been into cameras for a long time. He first drew attention in 1868 for his large historical photographs of Yosemite Valley, California, well before Ansel Adams, who did not begin photographing Yosemite seriously until the 1920s. 

In the case of horse motion, Muybridge’s solution was not a single camera; it was more of an elaborate system. At Stanford’s Palo Alto Stock Farm, which would become Stanford University, he set up a line of cameras along a track, each one triggered by a trip wire as Sallie Gardner ran past. The result was not a blur, but a sequence of sharp, discrete instants, time broken into measurable slices. Muybridge’s images revealed something unexpected: The horse does leave the ground, but not when its legs are fully stretched. The airborne moment comes when the legs are tucked beneath the body, a moment that the human eye hadn’t seen before.

What Muybridge actually demonstrated was that motion itself could be turned into evidence. The camera was no longer just a tool for portraits or landscapes. It became a machine for understanding reality.

Muybridge in 1899 (Wikipedia)

I guess you could say in a way that Sallie Gardner really was something like the world’s first movie star, though they didn’t call it that. The photographs did show motion on screen, per se, but they allowed you to see movement in stages. Within a year, Muybridge developed the zoopraxiscope, a projection device that animated sequences of motion using images painted or printed on rotating glass discs, often derived from his photographs. 

It wasn’t a modern movie projector, and it didn’t project photographic film in the way later cinema would. But it was among the first devices to project moving images to public audiences, establishing the visual logic that cinema would later put to use. It is believed that the device was one of the primary inspirations for Thomas Edison and William Kennedy Dickson‘s Kinetoscope, the first commercial film exhibition system.

The zoopraxiscope disc, circa 1893 by Eadweard Muybridge, considered an important predecessor of the movie projector.

So, key to the effort was not only that Muybridge kind of overturned centuries of artistic convention, but he also, in a way, laid out the basic grammar of cinema: break time into frames, control the shutter, sequence the images, then reassemble them into motion. Hollywood would later industrialize all of this in Southern California, though the first experiment took place in Northern California.

Muybridge’s technological advances mattered as much as his images (he would go on to do many other animals including humans). He pushed shutter speeds and synchronized multiple cameras. These were a few of the problems early filmmakers confronted decades later. Long before movie studios, California was already solving the physics of film.

Plate from ‘Animal Locomotion’ Series, 1887 (by Eadweard Muybridge)

There was also a scientific payoff. Muybridge’s sequences transformed the study of animal locomotion. For the first time, biologists and physiologists could see how bodies actually moved, not how they appeared to move. A gait could be compared with another, giving insight into biomechanics. 

Scientists, particularly those in Europe took notice. Physiologists such as Étienne-Jules Marey built on Muybridge’s work, dropping poor cats upside down and making motion photography into a formal tool for studying living systems. It was a way for biology to see life in a new way.

Falling Cat by Étienne-Jules Marey

Of course, today, moving imagery is essential to understanding how bodies move because motion is often too fast and complex for the naked eye. High-speed video and motion capture are used to analyze animal locomotion, study human gait and injury, improve athletic performance, and reveal behaviors in wildlife that would otherwise be invisible. Several institutions in California have been harnessing this power for years. Caltech researchers use high-speed video to fundamentally revise how scientists understand insect flight. Stanford’s Neuromuscular Biomechanics Lab identifies abnormal walking patterns in children, helping, for example, kids with cerebral palsy. At Scripps Institution of Oceanographyscientists found that fish use nearly twice as much energy hovering as they do resting, contradicting previous assumptions.

Hollywood would later perfect illusion, narrative, glamour, let alone bring digital technology to bear to give us aliens and dinosaurs, but it started in Palo Alto with a horse named Sallie Gardner, and yes, a rich guy and a curious, talented inventor. Muybridge went on to produce over 100,000 images of animals and humans in motion between 1884 and 1886.

There is a plaque that marks the site of Muybridge’s experiments. It’s California Historical Landmark No. 834, located at Stanford University on Campus Drive West, near the golf driving range. You might walk past it without knowing. But you could argue that this is one of those nondescript places where movie-making began. And of course, it happened here in California.  

Recommended California Science & Nature Videos

Today’s newsletter is a little different. Instead of one big story focused on a single topic, I put together a short list of some of my favorite California science and nature videos. I keep a long, slightly chaotic bookmark folder of things I come across online and save for later, often pulling ideas from it when I am stuck or just need a spark.

As a long-time nonfiction video producer, there are a few things I always look for when I watch a video story. First and most simply: did I learn something? It sounds obvious, but it’s also kind of rare. If a video teaches me a new idea, fact, or helps me see the world differently, I’ll often bookmark it. Then, since I shoot and edit myself, I look for production value. There are so many approaches now, from lavish documentaries with gimbals, sliders, drones, and RED cameras, to clean explainers built entirely out of motion graphics. Some people go in the opposite direction and keep things crude and minimal, and sometimes that works, too, as you’ll see in one of my recs below. Getting both the substance and the storytelling right is difficult, and only a small fraction of what I watch pulls it off.

All of this is to say that California is overflowing with incredible science and nature stories, many of which are perfectly suited to video. I have been back here for nearly a decade after working as a video producer in Berlin and NYC, and I was born and raised in California to begin with. Even so, I feel like I have barely scratched the surface and new stories emerge every day. (One documentary I am looking forward to is Out of Plain Sight, a film about the long-hidden dumping of chemical waste off the coast near Catalina Island and the slow, unsettling process of uncovering what was left behind on the seafloor, but it has not yet come to streaming.)

So today I am turning things over to a few people who, in my view, have done an excellent job telling stories of discovery, curiosity, and place in California, and doing it through video in a way that works well.

I hope they spark the same sense of wonder in you as they did for me!


The Farthest – PBS and Crossing the Line Productions

The Farthest is one of those rare science documentaries that nails both of the things I mention above almost perfectly. It tells the story of the Voyager missions, the tiny spacecraft launched in the 1970s that are still traveling through interstellar space today, carrying with them a record of who we are/were (remember the golden records?) and an example of humanity’s aspirations to understand not just nearby planets, but what lies beyond them. Much of the film unfolds at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory in La Cañada Flintridge, one of those quietly extraordinary places in California where we bring to bear science and technology to hurtle past the limits of the known world. I have visited several times, and, in fact, it’s quite close to my home. The documentary is thoughtful, beautifully produced, and deeply nourishing in the best sense. It leaves you with a feeling of awe, not just at the vastness and mystery of the universe, but at the human curiosity, innovation and persistence that help us understand our place within it. I loved it and have gone back to watch parts of it a few times.

Wolves v California – Source: The California Department of Fish and Wildlife / Independent Documentary 

This is a gripping look at an important conservation story that many people are probably unaware of: the return of gray wolves to California after nearly a century of absence (spoiler: we were not nice to them). The documentary is interesting because it examines the history of wolves in the region, but also the human side: the tension and the hope shared by ranchers, scientists, and environmentalists. It’s well-shot and explores how a top predator’s presence can reshape an entire ecosystem and what “coexistence” looks like in the 21st century.


JPL and the Space Age (16 episodes) – Source: NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) 

As I mentioned above, NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) is one of the most important scientific institutions in the world, and is nestled in the foothills of Los Angeles near the Arroyo Seco in La Canada Flintridge. The breadth of work that goes on there is mind-blowing, and the place uniquely deserves its own documentary series. And so, Voila!  

Produced by JPL itself and the legendary Emmy Award-winning documentarian Blaine Baggett, it uses rare archival footage to document the early, high-stakes days of space exploration. There are a lot of episodes and some are better than others. You can start with the first one about the origin story of JPL, or perhaps better, watch the one on Mars. Depending on your specific interests in space exploration you will probably find cool tidbits in all of them. Spread them out, watch one while eating lunch or in your downtime. The series is fascinating because it conveys the incredible ingenuity and the “fail-fast” mentality of engineers in La Canada and Pasadena (CalTech) who have turned science fiction into reality. It’s as much a human drama as it is a strict science documentary.


This Toxic, Drying U.S. Lake Could Turn Into the ‘Saudi Arabia of Lithium’ – Source: The Wall Street Journal (WSJ) 

The Wall Street Journal provides a sharp, investigative look at the Salton Sea, a place often associated with environmental disaster, that may now hold the key to the green energy revolution. (Spoiler…or maybe not: we’re going to need a LOT of lithium). The story of how the Salton Sea came to be is kind of bizarre. The doc explains how “white gold” (lithium) extracted from geothermal brine could transform the U.S. battery supply chain, making it essential viewing for anyone interested in the intersection of climate change and global business, and California is once again a key player. It is also nicely shot and produced, providing a powerful sense of the desolation and weird beauty of the place. 


Lost LA: Wild L.A. – Source: KCET / PBS 

“Lost LA” is an excellent series for understanding the layers of history beneath our feet, even deep history. This specific episode on “Wild L.A.” is a particularly interesting to me because it reminds us that Los Angeles was not always a sprawling concrete jungle. I’ve written a few pieces on LA’s distant past, and am always fascinated by the diverse flora and fauna that used to live here. All sorts of crazy animals. The video explores how the city was built over incredibly diverse ecosystems and how wildlife like mountain lions and hawks still cruise around this urban sprawl. The production quality is also top-notch, blending expert interviews with narrative visuals that let you see the city in a new light.


Fire Among Giants: What Happened after the Redwoods Burned?  – Source: Parks California / Save the Redwoods League 

After the devastating wildfires of recent years, many wondered if our ancient giants, like the redwoods and sequoia, would survive (check out our story on them). This video provides a scientific, but also emotional, look at what’s at stake. If you’ve ever visited either of these superlative trees in California, as I have (I’ve even climbed one of the largest sequoias in the world), it’s mind-blowing to think that after all the time they’ve lived, humans could be the cause of their demise (or maybe not). That said, it’s a great watch because it focuses on resilience; it shows the fascinating ways redwoods have evolved to live with fire. The footage of new green growth sprouting from blackened trunks is moving, hopeful, and provides a necessary perspective on the regenerative power of California’s most iconic forests.


EARTH FOCUS: San Clemente Island – Source: Link TV / Earth Focus 

We kind of ripped this one off for a recent article and video we did, but I am posting it anyway because it’s far more comprehensive than ours. The video, part of another PBS SoCal series called Earth Focus (many of them are quite good), is a rare look at a place most people will never get to visit. 

San Clemente Island is owned by the U.S. Navy, but as this documentary reveals, it’s also a laboratory for some of the most successful conservation work in the country. The video is intriguing because it shows the surprising partnership between the military and biologists to save species found nowhere else on earth. It’s a study of island biogeography, “accidental” wilderness and the high-tech methods used to track island ecology.


More Than Just Parks – Death Valley, Joshua Tree, and the Redwood – Source: The Pattiz Brothers 

If you are looking for pure, cinematic escapism, this is good. These are three separate videos from a pair of filmmakers called The Pattiz Brothers. The brothers are masters of time-lapse photography and 4K cinematography. These aren’t traditional documentaries, heavy with narration; instead, they are lyrical, visual poems that capture the light, movement, and scale of California’s National Parks like Death Valley, Joshua Tree, and the Redwoods. They are perfect for relaxing and appreciating the physical beauty of our state’s diverse terrain. The soundtrack is great, too, but you could honestly just put these up on the TV in a loop and chill to them. 


Listers – Source: Independent Film / Nature Culture 

While not California-focused, I consider this one of the best documentaries I watched last year, and it’s got a nice section on California birds. Also, as a full-length doc, as opposed to the other shorter vids listed here, it’s free and not on some streaming service. 

“Listers” takes you inside the quirky, obsessive, and high-energy world of competitive birdwatching. The guys behind it are hilarious: two stoner wannabe birders who cross the country to win the American Birding Association Big Year, chasing rare sightings, blowing their savings, and slowly realizing that the real prize isn’t the trophy but the strange subculture, friendships, and birds they fall in love with along the way. It’s a great watch because it explores the “why” behind the hobby: why people spend thousands of hours and miles to check a specific bird off a list. And unlike many of the other videos I’ve mentioned here, production values are not high. The pair shot most of the film using a comsumer-grade camcorder, but that rawness lends the film a personal, low-tech quality that actually works really well.


Ok, that’s it. I hope this gave you a few good ideas for things to watch in your spare time and a reminder of the unmatched diversity, curiosity, and sense of wonder wrapped up in California and its natural world. I am constantly adding to my bookmarks as I watch, so I may do another list like this down the road. As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words, and video is just thirty of them every second. Let me know in the comments if anything here really stuck with you, or if you have your own favorite California-focused videos to recommend.

Ancient and Poisonous Cycads Are the Prehistoric Plants of Southern California

Cycad at Descanso Gardens in La Canada Flintridge. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

If there’s one thing our increasingly digital world has pushed me toward, it’s a desire to reconnect with the natural one. At a moment when AI, deepfakes, and synthetic media blur the line between real and artificial, I find myself drawn more strongly to things that are undeniably, stubbornly real. So I spend a lot of time turning away from screens and paying closer attention to the world around me, searching for things in nature that are touchable, tangible, and timeless.

It turns out California is full of those opportunities, and I want to call your attention to just one: a plant.

Thermal image of a male cone of the cycad Zamia furfuracea during pollen release. (Photo by Wendy Valencia-Montoya)

The New York Times ran a fascinating piece recently about a type of plant that is both ancient and highly unusual, and one that I suspect most people know very little about: cycads. Many cycads resemble palm trees at first glance, but that’s misleading. Cycads are only distantly related to palms, belonging instead to one of the oldest surviving lineages of seed plants on Earth, the gymnosperms. Palms, by contrast, are angiosperms, or flowering plants, making them evolutionary newcomers compared to cycads, which were already thriving long before flowers existed at all. In fact, cycads and palms diverged from a common ancestor approximately 300 to 350 million years ago. Their apparent similarity in form is not a sign of close kinship but a classic case of convergent evolution, in which unrelated organisms independently arrived at a similar form because of adaptation in similar environments. 

Cycad cone (Dioon edule) at Descanso Gardens. Built for an ancient world: Cycad cones are among the largest and oldest seed structures on Earth, evolving long before the first flower bloomed. Their rugged design helped cycads thrive alongside dinosaurs — and survive into the modern day. (Erik Olsen)

I have always found cycads really cool, in part because they are some of the closest living things we have to connect us to the era of the dinosaurs, and because they just look — and feel — incredibly bizarre compared to most other plants. And the Times piece made clear that we are still actively learning how they work, which I find fascinating. 

The Times piece explains that cycads attract insect pollinators not through color or flowers, but by heating their cones at dusk and emitting infrared radiation. The process is known as thermogenesis and its rare in plants. (It turns out the female Skunk Cabbage, for example, warms up to melt away snow in the winter.) Specialized beetles, equipped with infrared-sensing antennae, detect this warmth and are guided from male cones to female cones (more on this in a sec) in a precisely timed sequence that ensures pollination. The relationship is so ancient, stretching back hundreds of millions of years, that some researchers now suspect heat-based signaling may lie at the very foundation of pollination, long before flowers evolved petals, color, and scent. However, this is controversial.

A Zamia cycad, one of roughly 66 cycad species growing at Descanso Gardens. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Fascinating, right? That’s just the beginning. 

My interest in cycads grew out of the many visits I have made to two major botanical gardens in Southern California that I return to again and again: Descanso Gardens and the Huntington. While The Huntington features a world-renowned, massive scientific collection of over 1,500 plants sprawling across a specialized hillside Cycad WalkDescanso Gardens offers a boutique, immersive “Ancient Forest” experience that replicates a prehistoric Jurassic environment beneath a canopy of redwoods. Both are really excellent to walk through. And these collections, unlike most museum encounters you might encounter with ancient life (i.e. dinosaur bones), consist of live plants you can actually walk among and touch. 

Cycad leaves are thick and very rigid, much different from most other plants. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

One of the most remarkable features of cycads is the toughness of their leaves. They are much stiffer and heavier than other plants. Almost plastic and fake. It turns out cycads invest in a thick, waxy cuticle that has some key benefits: it reduces water loss, reflects harsh sunlight, and protects them against insects and grazing animals. In other words, they are both survivors and a difficult meal, offering a key evolutionary advantage during a time when giant plant-eating dinosaurs roamed the Earth. 

(That said, there is evidence that some dinosaurs actually did feed on cycads. There are telltale signs of cycad cellular material in dinosaur coprolites, or fossilized poop, but scientists don’t think it was common.) 

And then there are the cones. 

A cycad in full cone, displaying one of the largest and most unusual reproductive structures in the plant world. These massive cones can weigh many pounds, grow for months or even years, and play an active role in pollination, sometimes heating up and releasing strong odors to attract specialized insects. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Cycad cones are among the strangest reproductive structures in the plant world. They are often massive, sometimes weighing many pounds, tightly packed, and so symmetrical they look almost engineered, as if they were 3D printed. They are also unusual because each individual cycad plant is strictly male or female, a condition known as dioecy. A male cycad will only ever produce pollen-bearing cones, while a female will only produce seed-bearing cones. Pines and firs, which are also gymnosperms, typically produce both male and female cones on the same plant. Cycads do not. There is no overlap between the sexes, no ability to self-fertilize, and no natural fallback mechanism if a partner is missing. (Cycads can be “bred” using off-shoots or pups, which is how many of the plants in these gardens came to be.)

That odd rigidity is on display at The Huntington in San Marino, which has one of the earth’s few specimens of Encephalartos woodii, often called “the loneliest plant in the world”. Only a single wild male was ever found, in South Africa in the late 1800s, and no female has ever been discovered (although scientists are using drones and AI to find one). There are a few other specimens alive today outside the Huntington, but they are all clones propagated from that one original plant. There’s a great Instagram from the Huntington on this.

Male cones of Encephalartos woodii at the Huntington (Photo: The Huntington)

So, the male cycad cones produce pollen and the female cycads make seeds. In several species of cycad, those seeds are big and glossy and plump and bright red or orange. They look temptingly like fruit, although remember that true fruits didn’t evolve until much later, with flowering plants. They do have a fleshy outer layer called a sarcotesta that looks and feels fruit-like, but it’s not. That’s weird. 

In another bizarre twist, those seeds are loaded with potent toxins that are very dangerous to animals, including humans. They can damage the liver and the nervous system, and even kill. (So even though I urged you to touch the leaves, maybe don’t handle the seeds…or at least wash your hands afterwards, and certainly don’t try to cook and eat them.) 

Cycad with large cone at Descanso Gardens in La Canada Flintridge. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Why make a seed dressed in bright, attractive colors if it’s toxic? That question has long puzzled scientists. Bright colors usually signal an edible reward, but in cycads the fleshy outer layer of the seed, the sarcotesta, is not toxic and does contain nutrients. The toxins are concentrated deeper inside the seed, suggesting the sarcotesta may have served as a non-fruit mechanism for seed dispersal, encouraging animals to handle or partially consume the seed while the embryo itself remained protected.

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Cycads are not indigenous to California. In nature, they are found almost entirely in tropical and subtropical regions, growing in parts of Africa, Australia, Asia, and the Americas, often in warm, stable landscapes that long predate California’s modern climate. That said, Southern California turns out to be an unusually good place to grow cycads. We have mild winters, dry summers, and a long growing season, which mimic the conditions in which cycads evolved across Africa, Australia, and parts of the Americas. That made the region attractive to collectors early on in the 20th century, when botanical gardens were expanding their missions from display to preservation.

“We are in a actually in a biodiversity hot spot here in California,” Sean C. Lahmeyer Associate Director, Botanical Collections, Conservation and Research at the Huntington told me. “Because of our climate in California we’re able to grow so many different types of plants. If you were to compare this garden to, say, one in England or at Kew, they have to grow things inside of greenhouses.”

A cycad in the genus Dioon, an ancient seed plant often mistaken for a palm. Its stiff, feather-like leaves and armored trunk reflect a lineage that dates back more than 250 million years, long before flowers. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

At The Huntington, cycads arrived largely through early plant collecting and exchange. Henry Huntington’s gardeners were building a world-class botanical collection at the same time as explorers and botanists were (controversially) bringing rare plants back from around the globe. Over decades, the Huntington expanded its cycad holdings, recognizing both their horticultural appeal and their scientific importance. Today, it houses one of the most significant cycad collections anywhere, including that famous Encephalartos woodii.

Descanso Gardens’ story, meanwhile, is more personal and more recent. In 2014, local residents in La Canada Flintridge, Katia and Frederick Elsea donated their private cycad collection, more than 180 plants representing dozens of species, to the garden. Many were rare, endangered, or extinct in the wild. Descanso said yes, of course, and built the Ancient Forest around them, and suddenly one of the most important cycad collections in the country was open to the public in La Cañada Flintridge. 

A mature cycad, its trunk layered with old leaf bases and topped by a crown of stiff, palm-like fronds. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Cycads are not all rare. You may even notice certain common specimens growing in people’s yards around California. But precisely because they are so ancient and so different from most plants we’re used to, I’d urge you to see them in person at places like Descanso Gardens and The Huntington. Touch the leaves. Study the symmetry. Marvel at the massive cones. (Just don’t put anything in your mouth.) Take a moment to consider just how unusual these plants are. And if you feel the need to pull out your phone to learn more, go ahead, but then put it away and spend a little time with the plants themselves.

California’s Two-Spot Octopus is the Alien Mind Off Shore

I have a deep passion for octopuses. I have made several short documentaries about them and even traveled twice to Indonesia with one of the world’s leading octopus scientists to film them in their natural habitat. My home office is packed with octopus imagery and iconography, and years ago I made a personal vow never to eat octopus. Squid and other mollusks still get a pass in my book. If you want to debate the ethics of this, fine.

The octopus is a singularly unique creature in the animal kingdom. They are essentially related to clams and abalone and snails, yet they possess an intelligence (let alone a body form) that is so strange and alien, it is unsurprising that sci-fi movies like Arrival feature creatures that are both very intelligent and octopus-like. If you have ever spent an hour alone on the seafloor with an octopus (as I have….just looking eye to eye), you know that they are something different. While most other fish swim away, an octopus will often linger and even engage in what might be considered play.

In fact, we’ve learned that octopuses rely heavily on learning rather than instinct. Unlike many animals that follow hardwired behavioral scripts, octopuses explore, test, and improvise. For that reason and others, it’s hard not to think of them more like other familiar mammals, like a dog or a dolphin.

And then you consider evolution and it gets really weird.

The common octopus (Octopus vulgaris) in Indonesia. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

That’s the thing. When we talk about smart animals, we tend to think of vertebrates: dolphins, whales, dogs, horses, elephants. They all share a long evolutionary lineage with us, shaped by natural selection into social, communicative, problem-solving creatures whose minds we recognize because they work in ways familiar to our own. But octopuses are not like that. They diverged from our lineage hundreds of millions of years ago. The last common ancestor humans share with an octopus was a simple wormlike creature. From that fork in the tree of life, vertebrates developed one path toward cognition while invertebrates followed others, some of them evolving remarkable abilities (spiders anyone?!), but rarely what we traditionally call intelligence.

Somehow, the octopus broke that pattern. It built a mind through a completely different architecture, with neurons spread throughout its arms, distributed processing, and behaviors that suggest curiosity, play, memory, strategy. They’ve developed these complex behaviors because they are essentially large blobs of protein moving about the seafloor. When exposed, they are very vulnerable, and so millions of years of evolutionary pressure have compelled them to become, well, smart. What makes this even stranger is how short their lives are…usually just a year or two. All of that intelligence compressed into what, in the grand scheme of things, is just a brief flash of existence.

Seeing eye to eye with an octopus in Indonesia (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Alongside them, their closest cousins, the cuttlefish, have evolved similarly striking cognitive abilities, but they don’t quite equate with the octopus. Still, together they show that intelligence is not a single climb up one evolutionary ladder but something nature can shape in entirely different ways. Convergent evolution.

So, if you were searching for meaning and purpose and trying to understand the process of intelligence itself, you could hardly find a better creature to study than the octopus. Short of discovering another intelligent life form somewhere in the universe, the octopus is one of our best bets to grasp what intelligence is and how it evolves.

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Scientists are doing precisely that right now. And there is one species they turn to the most: our own California two-spot octopus (Octopus bimaculoides), one of the most remarkable animals on the planet. (They get their name, obviously, from the attractive blue spots on their sides.) The California two-spot octopus spends its days tucked into small crevices and hunting right off our shores. You can see them up and down the coast. I have only encountered a few in the wild, but each time it’s special, like a Christmas gift.

California two-spot octopus in a lab (Photo: Erik Olsen)

What’s especially cool is that the California two-spot octopus has gone from a coastal curiosity — an animal long seen, admired, and loved by divers — to a full-fledged scientific model, teaching us new things about neuroscience, genomics, and behavior. In 2015, researchers published the first complete genome sequence of the California two-spot octopus, and it marked a watershed moment in the study of cognition. For the first time, scientists could look directly at the genetic architecture behind an intelligence built on an evolutionary branch completely separate from our own. The two-spot became the go-to organism for this work because it is abundant in local waters, manageable in laboratory settings, and displays a level of problem solving that can be tested and observed in controlled conditions. I guess they make great pets, too, because several folks on Instagram have them and make pretty entertaining videos with them.

The genome of the two-spot octopus turned out to carry a treasure trove of evolutionary surprises. One of the most striking discoveries was the massive expansion of protocadherin genes, which guide how neurons connect and communicate. Vertebrates like humans have them, too, but octopuses have many more. This genetic abundance appears tailored to their unusual nervous system. Roughly two-thirds of an octopus’s neurons are not in its central brain but distributed throughout its arms. Each arm can process sensory information and make decisions locally, while still coordinating with the rest of the animal.

According to Roger Hanlon, who I have worked with, octopuses are colorblind, and yet they have this remarkable ability to change color to fit their surroundings. It may be the most remarkable camouflage ability in the animal world, and yet we still understand surprisingly little about how it works. In addition to neurons, their skin and arms appear to contain opsins, light-detecting cells, raising the possibility that octopuses do not just see with their eyes, but with their bodies as well.

I mean, does it get more alien than that? That’s the stuff of serious sci-fi.

The author filming a cuttlefish in Indonesia. (Photo: Hergen Spalink)

The genome also revealed a wide set of genes involved in learning, neural flexibility, and sensory perception. Many of the same kinds of genes that support cognition in vertebrates appear in octopuses too, but they have been expanded and reworked, suggesting that evolution arrived at intelligence using a very different blueprint.

Perhaps the most surprising discovery is the octopus’s heavy reliance on RNA editing. RNA editing is the process by which cells deliberately alter RNA after it has been copied from DNA. If DNA is the master blueprint, RNA is the working set of instructions, and in octopuses that working copy can be extensively rewritten, especially in the nervous system. While other animals can do this on a small scale, this unusual molecular flexibility in the octopus may help their nervous systems adapt and respond with a level of speed and sophistication that maybe helps explain their problem-solving abilities and behavioral creativity, even if scientists are still working out exactly how it all works.

We’re really at the beginning of an effort to better understand this animal’s remarkable abilities and how it compares with our own unique intelligence. What we have learned so far is that octopus intelligence is real, measurable, and deeply unusual. In experiments, octopuses can solve puzzles, open jars, navigate mazes, remember solutions over time, and learn by watching others. Stories of octopuses escaping their tanks, squirting water at people they recognize, or slipping away from handlers they seem to dislike are surprisingly common. When I was a summer docent at the National Museum in Washington D.C. many years ago, there was an octopus that would greet me by draping an arm over the edge of the glass whenever I came in. Walking up to the tank felt less like approaching an exhibit and more like being welcomed by a friend.

Yes, I know, there is real danger in anthropomorphizing animals.

California two-spot octopus in a lab (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Many of my friends who are aware of my love for these animals beseeched me to watch My Octopus Teacher, the Oscar-winning documentary film. I’ve seen it twice, and I have to say that while I love many of the shots and scenes in the film, I feel like the movie goes way overboard making these animals seem like they have human emotions. I’m not sure they do. Something else is going on, I’m just not sure what it is.

If you’d like a good book on the subject, I’d recommend Other Minds: The Octopus, the Sea, and the Deep Origins of Consciousness by Peter Godfrey-Smith. It’s got more actual science in it than Sy Montgomery’s The Soul of an Octopus: A Surprising Exploration into the Wonder of Consciousness, which, like My Octopus Teacher, kind of annoyed me.

All of this is to say that we are blessed here in California to have such an amazing species in our local waters. The California two-spot octopus is more than an interesting coastal species; it is a window into how minds can form in ways we never imagined. Its genome offers clues to the very nature of intelligence, demonstrating that cognition can arise from wholly different evolutionary routes. In that sense, studying this unassuming little animal on our shoreline may be the closest we come to understanding an alien mind without ever leaving Earth.

Upwelling, the Ocean’s Engine Beneath California’s Waters

I recently revisited a book I enjoyed: The Blue Machine by physicist, oceanographer, and writer Helen Czerski. It is a beautifully clear exploration of the deep mechanics of the ocean and why those processes are so essential to keeping our planet cool, biodiverse, and stable.

One of the core ideas she returns to is ocean upwelling, a process that is especially important for those of us who live in California. Upwelling is one of those hidden forces that quietly underlies everything around us, and once you read about it, you realize that so much of what we know and love here simply would not exist without it.


Few marine processes are as impactful on the abundance of sea life off the coast of California as upwelling. It may not be a term you’ve heard before, but the natural oceanic process of upwelling is one of the most important engines driving climate, biological diversity, and the ocean’s food web.

It’s time to pay attention.

The abundance of sea life around some of California’s oil rigs is due in part to ocean upwelling near the continental shelf. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

In simple terms, upwelling is when cold, nutrient-rich water from the deep ocean rises to the surface, replacing warmer surface water. A churn. Along the California coast, prevailing northerly winds push surface waters offshore through the Coriolis effect, allowing deeper, colder water to rise in their place. Over the continental shelf off shore California, this upwelled water is rapidly brought into shallower depths, delivering nutrients directly into the photic zone where phytoplankton can grow. This is one reason continental shelves, including areas around offshore oil platforms (which I wrote about a few weeks ago), are biological hotspots.

California’s upwelling system is one of the most intensively studied in the world because it fuels the region’s crazy marine productivity.

In California, upwelling occurs year-round off the northern and central coast. It’s strongest in the spring and summer when northwesterly winds are at their most powerful. Upwelling is reduced in the fall and winter when winds are more variable.

Killer whales benefit from upwelling because the nutrient-rich waters fuel a surge in phytoplankton, which triggers an increase in the populations of smaller prey fish and marine mammals that orcas rely on for sustenance. (Photo: NOAA)

Researchers from institutions like the Scripps Institution of Oceanography and Stanford University have used a variety of methods, including satellite observations and computer modeling, to study upwelling. One of the groundbreaking studies was the CalCOFI program (California Cooperative Oceanic Fisheries Investigations), which began in the late 1940s. It was a joint venture between Scripps and state and federal agencies to investigate the collapse of the sardine fishery. The study showed that the sardine collapse was not just due to overfishing but also large-scale ocean and climate variability, a finding that reshaped fisheries science. Over decades, it has expanded its scope and now provides invaluable long-term datasets that help scientists understand upwelling and its impacts on marine populations.

Deep, cold ocean water is rich in nutrients because organic matter from the surface sinks as it dies or is consumed, and is broken down at depth, releasing nutrients back into the water. When that water is brought to the surface through upwelling, it delivers a fresh supply of nutrients that fuels phytoplankton growth and supports the entire marine food web.

The food web is kind of like a ladder. Or a chain. Nutrient-rich cold waters support blooms of phytoplankton: microscopic, photosynthetic organisms (meaning they are teeming with chlorophyll) that produce oxygen and form the base of marine food webs. When these primary producers flourish, it triggers a chain reaction throughout the ecosystem: zooplankton feed on phytoplankton, small fish feed on zooplankton, and larger predators, including fish, marine mammals, seabirds, (and humans) reap the rewards! So a well functioning upwelling system is pretty important for abundant sea life.

Also, cold water holds more dissolved gases like oxygen compared to warm water (yet another reason that warming seas could be a problem in the future). Oxygen is crucial for marine animals. In cold, oxygen-rich environments, organisms can efficiently carry out metabolic processes, which leads to higher rates of feeding, growth, and reproduction, thereby further boosting biological productivity. Everyone wins!

But there’s a problem.

Sardines off the coast of California (Photo: NOAA)

Studies have shown that natural changes in climate, like El Niño and La Niña events have a significant impact on wildlife and the local ocean ecosystem. During El Niño events, warmer waters and weaker upwelling reduce nutrient levels in the California Current, lowering phytoplankton productivity and causing deadly ripples through the food web. La Niña conditions generally strengthen upwelling, bringing nutrient-rich water to the surface and boosting marine productivity.

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Climate change adds a potentially dangerous new layer of uncertainty: oceans are warming and growing more acidic, which can disrupt the timing, strength, and benefits of upwelling. While climate change does not necessarily mean more El Niño years, it does mean that El Niño events now play out in a warmer ocean, often amplifying their impacts and increasing stress on marine life, with serious consequences for some organisms.

Sea lions off the Southern California coast. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

We’ve been seeing some of these impacts. Take sea lions and large fish populations. In years of strong upwelling, prey is more abundant and closer to shore, allowing California sea lions to forage more efficiently and increasing populations. During weak upwelling years, prey becomes scarcer and more dispersed, forcing sea lions to travel farther for food, increasing stress and reducing reproductive success. Variations like this have been observed in recent years during El Niño periods along the California coast, showing how quickly marine ecosystems respond to shifts in ocean conditions.

Of course, upwelling isn’t just a California thing; it’s a global phenomenon that occurs in various parts of the world, from the coasts of Peru to the Canary Islands. It serves a similar churning life inducing function in these places, too. But California is sort of the poster child for scientists thanks to extensive research here and its vital role in a multi-billion dollar fishing industry that includes species like albacore tuna, swordfish, Dungeness crab, squid, and sardines.

Anacaps Island in California’s Channel Islands (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Upwelling is one of those critical oceanic processes that helps maintain our stable and immensely productive California waters, but warming ocean temperatures and changes in wind patterns could cause big problems, disrupting the timing and intensity of upwelling, putting sea life off California’s coast at risk.

Of course, I do not mean for this piece to be yet another downer about climate change. California’s coastal ecosystem is, in many ways, healthier today than it has been in decades, thanks to policies and practices put in place once we began to understand what was truly at stake. Whenever I get offshore and experience the ocean firsthand, I feel deeply grateful for what we have now, even as I remain aware that it is something we could still damage if we’re stupid and careless…which is not out of the question. The encouraging part is that Californians have shown, again and again, a real capacity to rally when it matters. For now, then, it is worth appreciating what we have and getting out there to experience it whenever you get the chance.

Transforming California’s Oil Platforms into Marine Sanctuaries

An abundance of sea life is thriving on the substructure beneath the Eureka oil rig in Southern California (Erik Olsen)

If I told you that some of the richest, densest communities of marine life anywhere in the world thrive off California, you might not be surprised. We all know California has a vibrant marine ecosystem offshore. But if I told you that much of that life clings to the submerged steel legs of offshore oil rigs, you might pause, blink, and say: really?

The answer is yes.

I know because I have dived a few of them several times. Most recently this November, when I took a dive boat called the Giant Stride out of San Pedro and motored 12 miles out to the Eureka platform, which sits in 700 feet of water. From the deck, the rig looms like a floating city of steel and shadow, its massive pylon legs disappearing into the depths below.

The Eureka oil rig off the coast of California from the Giant Stride dive boat. An industrial behemoth above water, beneath, it is home to an immense diversity of sea life. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

But below the surface is another world, one teeming with millions of colorful fish, including blazing orange garibaldi, schools of dark blue blacksmiths, halfmoons, calico bass, yellowtail, and even the occasional mola mola or sunfish. A few rigs are the playground of scores of jubilant sea lions, many of them precocious youngsters that swoop and spin in the waters beneath the massive structure of the rigs like children let loose in a grassy park.

Playful sea lions frolic around the rigs beneath the surface. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

And then there are the pylons themselves and the life they support. Made of welded steel, these massive structures hold the entire oil platform above the water, millions of tons of machinery and deck space, often topped by a helicopter pad, all balanced on the integrity of engineering. Some descend straight down into the darkening waters, while others are reinforced by diagonal braces and horizontal crossbeams, a lattice of intersecting steel that keeps the rig steady against waves and wind.

But up close, you can hardly make out the metal. The substructure is so encrusted with life, layers of scallops, brittle stars, mussels, anemones, barnacles, and sponges, that the steel beneath has vanished into a living reef. In some areas, there are thousands of brittle stars clinging to the structure, they lie so thick on it that it’s hard to imagine how they compete for food. But food here is plentiful, and that abundance is one reason these rigs harbor so much life. They stand near the edge of the continental shelf, where the seafloor plunges into deeper water and cold, nutrient-rich currents surge upward toward the light. Those nutrients ignite blooms of plankton, feeding swarms of tiny crustaceans and filter feeders that coat the rig’s pilings. Those smaller creatures, in turn, sustain fish, sea lions, and even passing seabirds, a food web in full expression, built around the steel spine of an oil platform.

Brittle stars, mussels and other oprganisms blanket the rig supports in incredible numbers. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

All of this is not just my observation, however. Numerous studies have been done about the life on the rigs and most of them point to an astonishing fact: these rigs are some of the most productive ecosystems on the planet. In one study, University of California Santa Barbara marine biologist Milton Love and his colleagues found that certain platforms, including Eureka, produced more fish biomass per square meter than even the most productive natural environments in the world. More than mangroves, coral reefs, estuaries, etc.

The Eureka rig off the coast of Southern California. Once built to pump oil, it’s now also home to sea lions, fish, and a reef of life growing on its legs below the waves. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

This is good news for everyone. But there’s more. Other research suggests that the life flourishing on these offshore rigs doesn’t stay confined to them; it drifts, swims, and spawns its way back toward the coast, helping to replenish nearshore habitats. Rockfish are a perfect example. Once severely overfished, several species have made a remarkable comeback in California waters, perhaps due in part to these structures. As we wrote recently, the recovery of rockfish is one of the state’s quiet success stories.

But there’s a hitch.

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Several of these rigs are now nearing, or have already reached, the end of their productive lifespan, meaning that they no longer produce much oil. What should be done with them? In California, when offshore oil rigs reach the end of their productive life, state law mandates their decommissioning, which involves safely plugging wells, dismantling structures, and restoring the environment. Traditionally, this has meant full removal of the platform and associated infrastructure: a very expensive proposition, likely costing in the billions of dollars.

Clusters of mussels and strawberry anemones (Corynactis californica) coat the rig’s submerged structure in a dense mosaic of color. They form living carpets over the steel, while mussels, bryozoans, and brittle stars fill the gaps between them. (Photo: Erik Olsen)

However, the California Marine Resources Legacy Act (AB 2503), enacted in 2010, introduced an alternative known as the “rigs-to-reefs” program. This legislation allows oil companies to apply for permits to partially remove decommissioned rigs, essentially shearing off the part of the structure above water and leaving a portion of it underwater to serve as artificial reefs. Obviously they’d do it deep enough, about 80 feet, that the structure would not become a hazard to ship traffic. The goal is to enhance marine habitats by preserving the ecosystems that have developed around these structures over time. Rig removal is a growing billion-dollar-a-year business, and by removing only part of the rig and leaving behind the rest, an oil company can save millions in decommissioning costs.

As of January 2024, there are eight offshore production platforms in various stages of decommissioning; several have had multiple owners and operators. It’s complicated, but the biggest issue is liability. That is, what happens down the line when there is a leak, or if the plugging of the wells was done improperly? Who pays for that? This is all being hashed out, as it has been for some 20 years now. Californians hate oil washing up on their beaches. Many hate the idea of the oil companies getting a financial break after plundering the sea floor for oil. But there is no denying that all that life is there. You can see it. And, as Milton Love said: “If you remove a platform, you may be killing tens of millions of animals because they happened to settle on steel instead of a rock. Which I think is a tragedy.”

Substructure of the Eureka rig above water in California (Erik Olsen)

Oil companies have not used California’s Rigs-to-Reefs law because it leaves them financially and legally burdened. They must keep long-term liability for the structures and give up to 80 percent of their cost savings to the state, which makes full removal simpler and less risky than the complex and politically sensitive reefing process.

And so, as some of these platforms near the end of their productive lives, a significant debate has emerged over their future. Should they be removed entirely, or could they be repurposed into artificial reefs that continue to support marine biodiversity? The discussion is not just about engineering challenges or environmental concerns; it’s about reimagining the relationship between human infrastructure and the natural world.

Amber Sparks led the expedition I took out to the rigs. I’ve dived with her several times before and believe she’s a passionate advocate for sea life and for a healthy offshore California marine ecosystem. She and her co-founder Emily Hazelwood are strong supporters of reefing the rigs, and through their work with Blue Latitudes, they collaborates with scientists, government agencies, and oil companies to explore ways decommissioned platforms could be transformed into permanent marine habitats rather than dismantled and removed.

“The big question is, are these structures good habitat that should be left in place to continue to thrive as reefs, or should they be removed? In my opinion, they would be really valuable to be left in place as reefs.”

A brittle star falls through the water column beneath the Eureka rig (Erik Olsen)

So where do things stand today? A December 2023 Public Environmental Impact Statement (PEIS) from the Bureau of Safety and Environmental Enforcement and Bureau of Ocean Energy Management marks the most recent major development in the offshore rig debate, and it could significantly shape future decommissioning of California’s oil platforms. Though the PEIS identifies partial removal as the environmentally preferable option (italics mine) because it would preserve the habitat of existing biological communities, the agencies involved selected “Alternative 1a”, mandating complete removal of platform jackets and associated infrastructure offshore southern California. The final decision over what to do with the rigs has not yet been made, but the current wisdom suggests that they may have to go. As a diver and novice fisherman, I consider this a shame.

Public opposition to “big oil” remains strong in California, fueling demands among small but vocal groups for the complete removal of oil rigs, despite the potential loss of coral-like ecosystems. Environmental groups like the Natural Resources Defense Council argue that retaining any portion of these structures enables the oil industry to persist as an environmental threat.

Beneath the surface of a California oil rig, a vibrant colony of pink strawberry anemones transforms industrial infrastructure into an underwater oasis. (Erik Olsen)

“People here have been waiting for these oil platforms to go away,” Linda Krop, an environmental lawyer with the Environmental Defense Center, an advocacy group based in Santa Barbara, told the me when I reported on this for the New York Times. Ms. Krop challenged the notion that the science definitively supports the role of rigs in fostering marine life. She argued that leaving the rigs in place would effectively reward polluters by allowing them to avoid the expense of removal.

Globally, the concept of Rigs-to-Reefs has seen success, particularly in the Gulf of Mexico, where over 500 platforms have been converted into artificial reefs. These structures have become magnets for fish and invertebrates, supporting commercial and recreational fishing and diving industries. However, critics argue that not all programs are created equal. In some regions, lax regulations have allowed oil companies to avoid fully addressing environmental risks, leaving behind structures that degrade over time and release pollutants. California’s approach, with its stringent oversight and commitment to environmental benefits, aims to avoid these pitfalls while maximizing ecological gains.

The oil rigs substructure provides a fascinating contrast to the life on large sections of it. (Erik Olsen)

What happens to California’s oil platforms will reveal how the state chooses to balance economic legacy with ecological responsibility. Few would argue that oil companies deserve further rewards after decades of drilling and profits, yet the decision ahead is not so simple, it is about what becomes of the ecosystems that have grown around their steel foundations. There should be a way to move forward responsibly, one that removes the risk and legacy of drilling while preserving the thriving marine life that has made these structures their home.

San Clemente Island is Where War Games and Wildlife Coexist

Loggerhead Shrike (Photo: US Fish and Wildlife Service)

A few months ago, I took a fishing trip out to the western side of San Clemente Island. I woke at two in the morning to the rattle of the anchor chain dropping and stepped out onto the deck, expecting darkness all around us. Instead the night was alive with a strange glow. Dozens of squid boats floated offshore, their powerful lights illuminating the water with a bluish, Avatar-like brightness. The lights draw squid toward the surface before the crews scoop them up in nets.

As I knew from earlier research, and from being a long-time California resident, squid are one of California’s top commercial fisheries, a multimillion-dollar industry built around what is known as market squid. They thrive in enormous numbers in the deep waters around the Channel Islands and up toward Santa Barbara, even though the average beachgoer rarely thinks about them. From the rail of the fishing boat I was I could see vast swarms just below the surface.

Squid boat off shore San Clemente Island (Photo: Erik Olsen)

When dawn broke, San Clemente Island emerged ahead of us, and I was struck by how stark and empty it looked. In both directions stretched the same raw, rugged coastline, with almost no sign of human presence (there were what appeared to be radio towers on the top of a peak, but no people).

It felt desolate and otherworldly. But the reality is more complicated.

The island is part of the Channel Islands, a chain that trends east to west rather than the usual north–south pattern of most California ranges. The Channel Islands are often called North America’s Galápagos because they support an extraordinary number of species found nowhere else, shaped by the deep isolation that defines island biogeography (we wrote about this earlier).

San Clemente Island (photo: U.S. Navy)

San Clemente is no exception. The island is abundant in wildlife, with its own collection of rare plants and animals. But what makes it stand apart from the other islands is the scale of the military activity just beyond the barren cliffs. The U.S. Navy conducts constant training here, including missile tests, amphibious landings, and live-fire exercises. The island is considered one of the most important training grounds for the United States military, operating around the clock even as endangered species cling to survival in the canyons and plateaus nearby.

San Clemente Island looks like a long volcanic ridge from offshore, but it has been one of the most important and least visible military landscapes in California for almost a century. It is the southernmost of the Channel Islands and has been owned entirely by the U.S. Navy since the late 1930s. Over time it became a central part of Naval Base Coronado, and today its main airfield supports helicopters, jets, drones, and special operations teams that rotate through the island throughout the year.

It all seemed really interesting. I desperately wanted to go ashore, but if I’d tried, I almost certainly would have been arrested.

Live fire training exercises with mortars on San Clemente Island Photo: (Spc. William Franco Espinosa / U.S. Army National Guard)

The island began shaping military history just before World War II. In 1939, naval engineers brought early versions of the Higgins boat to San Clemente Island to test how they handled surf, wind, and timing with naval gunfire. These flat-bottomed landing craft became essential to Allied victories in places like Normandy and Guadalcanal. The island’s rugged shoreline helped the US military refine the tactics behind the amphibious assaults that defined twentieth century warfare.

During the Cold War, San Clemente Island evolved into one of the Navy’s busiest live fire training sites. The waters around Pyramid Cove hosted decommissioned ships used as targets. Carrier air wings practiced bombing runs across the southern plateau. Marine units rehearsed ship-to-shore landings on isolated beaches, while submarines conducted simulated missions under restricted airspace. We did a short video you can watch here.

Few places on the West Coast allowed sea, air, and land forces to operate together with real weapons, and the island’s remoteness made it ideal for rehearsing missions that couldn’t take place near populated coastlines. Yet all of this is happening just about 60 miles offshore from Los Angeles. (It took us about five hours to get back).

Higgins Boat (Photo: US Navy)

Civilian access has always been extremely limited, which is why the island only reaches the news when something unusual happens. One widely reported event occurred in 2023, when a private pilot illegally landed a small plane on the island’s runway and then stole a Navy truck before being detained. He tried again in 2025. This kind of thing underscores how isolated and tightly controlled the installation is. For the most part, the only people who ever set foot on the island are service members using it as a sophisticated, real world training environment.

Oh, and scientists, too.

That’s because the island’s natural history has been studied intensively. Decades ago, ranching introduced goats, sheep, and invasive plants that stripped vegetation from entire hillsides. Feral cats and rats preyed greedily on ground nesting birds, and live fire exercises fragmented habitat. By the 1970s and 1980s, San Clemente Island held one of the highest concentrations of endangered species in California, but everything was under threat.

San Clemente Island looks otherworldly and barren from a fishing boat (Photo: Erik Olsen)

Enter the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which worked with the military to balance military readiness with the legal requirements of the Endangered Species Act. And it’s been, by many measures, a pretty major success.

No species became more symbolic of the struggle to protect the island than the San Clemente loggerhead shrike, a lovely, black masked songbird that lives nowhere else on Earth. By the late 1990s its wild population had fallen to as few as fourteen individuals. The Navy funded a comprehensive recovery effort that included captive breeding, predator removal, and habitat reconstruction, all with the expertise help of the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance. By restoring vegetation and extensive breeding, scientists released shrikes which eventually began to hunt, build territories, and raise their young. The species is now considered one of the most successful island bird recoveries in North America.

The San Clemente Island fox, once threatened by habitat loss and predation, has rebounded significantly thanks to intensive conservation efforts that stabilized its population and restored its native ecosystem. (Photo: USFWS)

And that wasn’t the only success. Once goats and sheep were removed, native shrubs and herbs began returning to the island. Endemic plants such as the San Clemente Island lotus and San Clemente Island paintbrush, responded quickly once the pressure from grazing disappeared. In 2023, after decades of habitat recovery, the Fish and Wildlife Service announced that five island species were healthy enough to be removed from the endangered species list, a pretty cool milestone that suggested a major ecological turnaround for San Clemente and the Channel Islands as a whole.

San Clemente Island lotus (Photo: USFWS)

Today, San Clemente Island remains one of the most unusual places in California. It is a live fire training range where carrier groups, SEAL teams, and Marines rehearse some of the most complex operations in the Navy. It is also a refuge where rare birds and plants have recovered after hovering near extinction. Conservation biologists and military planners now coordinate schedules, field surveys, and habitat protections to keep both missions intact. There’s an excellent documentary on this recovery effort made by SoCal PBS.

California has become a national leader in restoring damaged ecosystems. And while the state has lost much of its original wildness over the centuries, it also offers some of the most compelling examples of species and habitats recovered from the brink. San Clemente Island is more ecologically stable today than at any point in the past century, and it continues to serve as one of the Navy’s most valuable training grounds.

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